A journey through history, with legends, brown bears, phantasmagorical fountains and a picturesque river. And the charming Alps less than an hour’s drive away
Words Alessandro Giudice
Photography Alessandro Barteletti
Video Andrea Ruggeri and Anthony Egas
Swiss Grand Tour is a project to discover itineraries driving classic Alfa Romeo cars, in partnership with Astara, the distributor and importer of the Brand in Switzerland.
Canton | Bern |
Route | from Bern to Gurnigel |
Distance | 36 km |
Travel time | 1h |
Driving pleasure | 4/5 |
Panorama | 4/5 |
An enchanting place, a human-sized city steeped in history and a territory dominated by a generous nature, made of rivers, lakes and spectacular mountain peaks. This is Bern and the canton of the same name, capital of the Swiss Confederation and one of the destinations we chose for our Swiss Grand Tour driving some of the greatest classic Alfa Romeos. This is the turn of the Giulietta Sprint Speciale, a model designed by Bertone, which certainly does not go unnoticed with its aerodynamic lines that became a benchmark between the 1950s and ‘60s when it made its début on the market.
[click to watch the video]
Putting the car at our disposal for this itinerary was Serge Stotzer, owner of the Oldtimer Galerie in Toffen, to the south of Bern, a leading company in the organisation of classic car auctions. We arranged to meet Serge in Klösterlistutz, a fairly large and easy-to-reach area in east Bern. From here we headed for the historical centre, across the Nideggbrücke, one of the many bridges crossing the River Aar, which is an integral part of Bern.
Precisely at this point, a large bend in the river has turned the area into a kind of peninsula, where the first settlement originated. And, talking of origins, before the bridge you will come across the Bärengraben, the “Bear Pit”, the city zoo’s home for three brown bears, considered not only a lucky charm for the people from Bern but is also the symbol found on the city’s coat of arms. A few hundred yards from Bärengraben, a panoramic terrace overlooks the architectural structure of the Nideggbrücke, with its three bays, and the rooftops of the old town and the surrounding river. Crossing the bridge, you enter the medieval centre, declared a UNESCO world heritage site in 1983: here it is worth avoiding the main traffic flow, which bends to the right to enter Kramgasse, straight ahead. This long, flag-decked road is lined with shops protected by the characteristic arcades of Bern, which boasts six kilometres of arcades that make it a place of choice for shopping in any weather. At the end of Kramgasse, the city’s most famous landmark and much-photographed tourist attraction, the Zytgloggem, a large tower housing the spectacular astronomical clock. Built in 1218 as a guard tower and used over the centuries as a prison, it was later adorned with gold-leaf decorations and the impressive Gothic spire.
Before you reach the tower, in the middle of the road you will note a coloured column topped by a standing bear, wearing a golden helmet with a cub eating grapes sitting between its paws. This is one of the eleven allegorical fountains in the historical centre that make Bern famous throughout Switzerland, and just one of the 100 or so scattered around the city. Searching for them among the houses and squares is a favourite pastime for tourists. Strolling through the streets, you will find two religious buildings, the Cathedral devoted to Saints Peter and Paul, dating back to the mid-19th century, but particularly the protestant ‘Münster’ with a Gothic bell tower measuring over 100 metres high, which can be seen from anywhere in the city. Meanwhile, the compact, nippy Giulietta SS takes us through the city's medieval streets – where the ancient walls and cobbled streets reverberate with the powerful, dry roar of the four-cylinder engine – emerging in the bright, open spaces of the large Confederation Square. And here stands the magnificent Federal Palace, home to the Federal Council, the executive body of the Swiss Confederation government.
Before leaving Bern, a quick trip along the banks of the Aar is a must: stop in one of the many lively bars frequented by the university students for a snack or drink, to enjoy a different view of the old city. For instance, along the Dalmaziquai, which runs beneath the bridge of the same name, offering an attractive view of the rear of the Federal Palace. Another place not to be missed is the spectacular Zentrum Paul Klee, designed by Renzo Piano to house the artist's works.
Our next destination, as well as the point of arrival of our itinerary, is the Gurnigel Pass, 1600 metres above sea level in the Bernese Prealps. To reach it, we leave Bern from the same place we met Serge, heading south towards Belp. Passing the town, the landscape opens up offering views of boundless meadows set against the first Bernese peaks. In Toffen, we take a technical break at the Oldtimer Galerie, with its precious two- and four-wheel gems, and then start to climb towards Gurnigel.
The road is quite smooth, alternating short straight roads with wide bends through the mountain pastures. Reaching Riggisberg, a small municipality with 2500 inhabitants, we just have to stop at the Abegg-Stiftung Foundation, set up by the Zurich-based couple the Abeggs to conserve and promote an extraordinary collection of heritage fabrics, including a visit to their own villa and the artworks on show.
For car enthusiasts, Riggisberg comes alive in early September each year with the “Gurnigel Bergrennen”, the 3.8 km hill climb race inaugurated in 1910 where the best Swiss and international drivers compete: this unmissable event attracts a 10,000-strong audience every year. Accompanied by the grit of a Stelvio Quadrifoglio, the Giulietta Sprint Speciale climbs quickly towards the pass along the road on the eastern slopes of the Selibüel. Pure driving pleasure, but unfortunately we have to reckon with a rather menacing sky.
And indeed, in just a few minutes the sun makes way for torrential rain, though it seems that people are quite used to this round here. Having reached Grunigel and the end of our itinerary, we should make two considerations: the first in favour of the small Alfa Romeo, which was agile and easy to drive even in the pouring rain; the second in favour of the location which, although penalised by low clouds and limited visibility, concealing the view towards Lake Thun and the Fribourg Alps, has a charm that makes you want to return. We hope next time when the sun is shining.
THE COLLECTOR: Serge Stotzer
The "Giulietta SS"
I have always loved Alfa Romeos, one of the first cars I drove was a 2003 GTV. This Bertone Giulietta Sprint Speciale was purchased in Switzerland on 7 September 1961 and it seems as if it has always been here. The 97 HP four-cylinder engine should really have more horsepower, with its original intake ducts designed by Virgilio Conrero, from 1963 the official Alfa Romeo engine manufacturer, also known as the “engine magician” due to his skill in increasing power output. In the mid-1990s, the SS was fully restored – mechanics, bodywork and interiors. In 2002 it was bought by an enthusiast who, in 2004, had a new drive shaft installed, along with new main bearings and new piston rings, with a complete overhaul of the cylinder head. Preparing it for its MOT, in 2016 it had a new tank, new silencers and an electronic ignition. I really enjoy driving it, even though, like many classic Alfas, the second gear is a little stiff. But it doesn't take long to get used to it.
The Modern Alfas
First, I should say that the last car that I think holds all the thrills of the brand is the 4C, so a car designed 11 years ago. It is not a modern Alfa Romeo but a future classic, with tonnes of personality, in both its design and its driving style. What I love about recent Alfas is the noise and the performance of the Giulia Quadrifoglio and Stelvio Quadrifoglio, excellent cars for everyday use and safe in any condition. Packed with electronics, they are easy for anyone to drive, despite their huge power output. They are very beautiful cars but they don’t offer the same thrills of a true sports Alfa Romeo like those of the past.
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